Culture

In Thessaloniki, retsina became particularly popular, during the interwar period and after, mainly because of its low price - without meaning that it was not consumed in previous years by the residents of the city. As early as the 1910s there are reports in the local press about the quantities of retsina available for sale to the taverns and wine shops of the area.

This specific type of wine came to Northern Greece from Attica, and mainly from Mesogeia, which at that time was the center of retsina production in our country. The wine barrels arrived at the port of Thessaloniki, where it was the first point of sale, directly from the holds of the ships. Afterwards, they ended up in the town's wine cellars, where they were stored until the wine was consumed. However, there were also tavern owners, who produced their own retsina in barrels that they kept for this purpose in the basements of their shops.

“On saint Dimitrios day, what are you and what am I, says the new wine to the old one”, states the popular Greek proverb. In Thessaloniki, retsina barrels were always opened on saint Dimitrios day, October 26, when all its lovers rushed to be the first to taste the so- called “yomatari”, i.e., the fresh wine. A day of celebration for the city was also the occasion for the celebration of the new retsina harvest.

In September, city streets where there were taverns became impassable. They were overwhelmed by endless rows of barrels; the barrels being prepared to receive the new retsina. The tavern owners inspected them, giving instructions to the little ones about washing them, the grocers collected the remains of the resin, the mud, while the craftsmen and their “kopelia” - the coopers, that is, and their assistants – worked tirelessly, repairing by tightening a hoop or caulking the staves to tighten up. The kids gathered around the barrels being repaired. They would try to steal a piece of resin to make their burning firecrackers in the cauldrons or in the basins of their mothers and to light fires in the streets which they would then jump over while playing and dancing around.

On saint Dimitrios day, drinkers sauntered into taverns eager to taste, judge, and rate. The friends of retsina reviewed the weather conditions of the entire past year, kept accounts of how much sulfuring and spraying was done, whether there was a lot of rain. The quality of retsina depends on them, and they are mainly interested in it.

For good retsina, as the old saying goes, weather conditions will play their part. A frost and a good northern wind are necessary for retsina to acquire clarity.

On saint Dimitrios day, was the day, according to tradition, when the barrels with new retsina were opened. According to the same tradition, in fact, retsina was consumed from that day until the next spring, since, as they said, at that time, the wine became vinegar and therefore it was impossible to drink it.

Before the “yomatari”, i.e., fresh retsina, touched their lips, the experienced friends of retsina guessed its quality. Many times, some people poured wine from the tap of the barrel that they thought had the best yomatari. Others left the store in anger because the tavern owner was filling their glasses with the “ferto”. It was retsina from the demijohns and not from the barrel. Wherever there was good retsina the word was spread, and the tavern together with its owner gained fame among the many friends of retsina.

When barrels were empty and until the opening of the new ones, the friends of retsina were having a hard time due to the lack of retsina. They watched every movement of the tavern owner in case he had the “sosma” (the wine at the bottom of the barrel) hidden somewhere and he didn’t give it to them. When they couldn’t find any, they scoured the neighborhoods in case they got lucky and found the “magufiko” in some tavern. The sosma was much preferable to the “kokkineli”, as they did not like it and drank it out of necessity.

However, some tavern owners served straw wine instead of retsina. Experienced drinkers, however, went with the “skonaki” (a special powder) in their pockets and thus could not be laughed at. Specifically, they poured the skonaki into the glass of wine, stirred it and it foamed. If the contents turned black like ink, then they knew the wine was from raisins and returned it to the owner. The mysterious skonaki was a couple of pinches of soda. The soda blackened straw wine, while it reddened retsina.

In the years between the wars, the song of retsina was inspired, mainly from the Athenian operetta. With these "cantadoric" songs, the fun in the taverns was at its peak, alongside musicians, who set the tone and led the "potpourri".

Among the regulars of the taverns and koutoukia were also well-known rebetes and songwriters, who were inspired by the popular wine and wrote many of their later hits. One of the oldest, with the characteristic title "My Retsina, My Retsina" to music and lyrics by Nikos Hatziaapostolou, was written in 1921 and performed by Nikos Moraitis and Pheidon Tambouras in the revue "Apachides of Athens". In the chorus it is mentioned: "My Retsina, my Retsina I will die with you / I will not put all the good things of the world before you".

Another song, entitled "Drink sweet wine is no shame", with music by Mimis Katrivanos and lyrics by Kostas Nikolaidis, was sung in 1933 by Nikos Perdikis in the revue "Paparuna" with the troupe of Mavrea and Giuseppe Silva at the Peroke theater. It says: "As I enter the tavern / treat, treat I say to the tavern keeper / amber retsina".

In 1934, with music by G. Konstantinidis and lyrics by Costas Bezou, the song "My pure retsina" was written, performed by Petros Epitropakis. Among other things, he states: "My pure retsina / my amber, blonde love / you kill all woes / and always extinguish all care. / That's why I won't give up / the resinous color / and I want to be buried / for honor with a cannula in my mouth".

Many decades later, reference to retsina and Thessaloniki is made in the song "At Floka’s" by Dimitris Karaisas, with lyrics by Christos Zafeiris, from the album "From Vardari to Depo". Among other things, he mentions: "Where you play skateboards / it was Argentina / and where you taste popcorn / it was Salamina. / In the Alcazar I saw Nargis / in the zephyr Al Capone, / I drunk retsina at Delis / at Floka’s for honor". "Delis" was a well-known tavern in the Evzonon area in Thessaloniki.

In the period from 1934 to 1940, many rebetes came from Piraeus to Thessaloniki, such as Giorgos Abatis, Markos Vamvakaris, Michalis Jenitsaris, Anestis Delias, Stelios Kiromytis and Yiannis Papaioannou, because of the political regime of Metaxas. In Thessaloniki they presented their compositions in Adamakou (Asvestochori), Agop (Eptalofos), Makridis (Charilaou) and Paramagoulas (Toumba). All well-known canteens of the time, not only because of their well-known patrons, but also because of the retsina they served.

Retsina and rebetiko quickly became linked in the world's consciousness, and the enjoyment of one was a prerequisite for the other. Often, in the koutoukia, a lone man, slightly drunk on retsina, would get up and dance the zeibekiκο to the sounds of the bouzouki or baglama.

Around the same time, in 1932, Giorgos Dalamagas, a well-known tavern owner of the time, opened his first tavern in Thessaloniki, in which he had seventy "bombes" of retsina. This is the well-known "Fountain". Later, in 1935, he opened "Koutsoura", in Nikiforou Foka. Vassilis Tsitsanis also sang there. The well-known rebetis refers to this tavern keeper in one of his songs: "Let's go to the Acropolis, to Varna / and from there to Dalamaga's "Koutsoura" / Marigo will drive you crazy / to listen to Tsitsanis / playing fine baglama".

Soon enough, the popular followers of the retsina were invaded by representatives of the bourgeois spirit so that the retsina found reference in poetry, literature and odes. Varnalis, Fotis Iofilis, Spyros Melas, Timos Moraitinis, Christos Levantas, Paul Nor, Traiforos were some of Retsina's most loyal friends.

The rite of retsina enjoyment and its connection with the city was also captured through their works. Kostis Moskov in his poem "I was born in the age of bronze", refers, among other things, to retsina. He himself was a well-known regular of the city's taverns and a lover of retsina. One could often meet him, among company, high up in the castles of Thessaloniki in "Domna" and talking among the mezedes and retsina in the center of the city in "Loutro" or "Modiano".

In his book "Uzeri Tsitsanis", Giorgos Skabardonis refers to Nikolaos Moushoundis - a real person -, a Gendarmerie officer who served mainly in Thessaloniki. The author conveys to us the officer's love for retsina.

In his article entitled "Chitsani, comeback!" the same author describes scenes from the Ouzeri "Tsitsanis" that the composer kept at 22 Pavlou Mela street, in Thessaloniki. Retsina was one of the drinks served to many regulars in the shop.

Retsina appears again in the stories of Giorgos Skabardonis, and specifically in the short story "Hanging wildcard" which is included in the book "The Earned". There, the owner of the patzatzidiko "I most Greek Cyprus", in Egnatia in 1962, drinks retsina together with a friend, early in the morning, in the shop. In the same book, in the short story "KTEL Evrou" he describes scenes of retsina consumption by a group of friends.

Retsina was also the favorite wine of the heroes of Isidoros Zourgos in the book "In the shadow of the butterfly". The plot takes us, among other things, to Thessaloniki, whose buildings, streets, haunts, corners, countryside, and surroundings are described in the pages of the book through the history of an entire century.

Achilleas Goutas also mentions two friends who were enjoying their retsina in Modiano. In the short story "My friend... Pavlos", the author describes his meetings with Pavlos and other "antique lovers" for retsina in the well-known market, in 1945. 

The book "The Bat" by Stratis Tsirkas takes us to Thessaloniki in 1954. One of the scenes in the book takes place in the Creonidis tavern "The balcony", a well-known restaurant in the city. The retsina of the said tavern was well known among the wine lovers of the time and makes its appearance in this scene of the book. 

Retsina acts as a comforting companion too. Ioannis Progakis refers to two friends who drink retsina in the poem "Lost Life" from the "Poems in Quarantine" collection.

From the ancient years until today, wine exists in our lives as a symbol of company, fun, union, tradition. Especially retsina, which is a characteristically Greek wine. But, looking at wine (and retsina in particular) from a nutritional point of view, does it have any benefits for our health?

The guidelines for the amount of wine to drink depend on the degrees of alcohol it contains. However, a wine with an alcohol content of 11% - 12%, as retsina usually has, should not exceed 10 glasses / week. It is also important to mention that it is recommended that the consumption of up to 10 glasses / week should be distributed evenly during the week and not be massive. 

Drinking retsina in moderation, therefore, seems to be associated with some health benefits.

More specifically:

1. It seems to benefit the good functioning of the heart due to the high content of antioxidants it contains.
2. Favors the value of good cholesterol – HDL in the bloodstream
3. Helps reduce a substance known as "fibrinogen" which contributes to blood clots.
4. It has been associated with a reduced risk of type II diabetes
5. It has even been linked to longevity

The role of wine in weight gain 

If you're watching your diet, alcohol is something you should consider in your daily caloric intake because most alcoholic beverages are basically made up of starches and sugars. However, wine is one of the recommended drinks for those who are careful about their body weight and their diet, since 1 glass of wine - 125ml with an alcohol content of 11% - 12%, as retsina usually has, seems to provide ~ 113 calories.

Some useful practices that you can implement regarding the consumption of retsina, and better control of your body weight are the following:

Summarizing:

Drinking wine (and retsina in particular) in moderation seems to
benefit our health
The recommended consumption of retsina should not exceed
10 glasses / week.
Alcohol can affect our body weight, for this reason
we need to take this into account in our total calorie
intake during the day
Of all the alcoholic beverages, retsina is one of the recommended ones since,
in addition to the antioxidants it contains, the calories contained
in 1 glass are few
Sufficiently hydrating our body with water or diluting
retsina with soda, combining it with a balanced meal
as well as the slow rate of its consumption help to avoid
drunkenness and better control weight
- To make a balanced meal to pair
retsina with, try to make it consisting of vegetables, protein,
carbohydrates, and good fats

Evi Lampropoulou
Dietitian Nutritionist
evilabropoulou.gr

From the first groups that enjoyed retsina in the taverns of Thessaloniki, was later created the association of the “Lechrites” of Thessaloniki, which continues its traditions until today. In 1918, the first gatherings began with the purpose of fun and laughter in a difficult period for the residents of the city that had just emerged from the turmoil of the Balkan wars and the First World War. 

As the first core of the association were the “bagiates”, that is, the people of pure Thessalonician descent. Later, they were also joined by Greek refugees from Turkey and Bulgaria. 

They were the so-called “bohemians” who from 1925 onwards were called the “Lechrites”. Their name comes from the small insect, the lechritis, that lives and dies around the cannula of the retsina barrel. Their official feast is on the Sunday of the Prodigal Son, for which they prepare every year since the previous one. 

The “Lechrites” pair their retsina with delicious traditional mezes and hate fast food. The plates are not cleared from the table until the feast is over, which usually takes quite a while. Over the years, the “Lechrites” became known in all the neighborhoods of Thessaloniki for their feasts, but also for their penchant for consuming their “blonde sweetheart”, retsina.

In Greece, in the context of the Mediterranean diet, wine is a staple on the daily table. This is particularly true for Thessaloniki, where in the context of a centuries-old culinary tradition characterized by strong cultural diversity, the category of wine that dominates over time is retsina. This has led to specific rituals regarding the enjoyment of retsina and reflect the sense of moderation that characterizes the Mediterranean diet.

The wine is always drunk chilled and served at a temperature between 8° C - 10° C. Retsina is usually served in a 500 ml carafe or bottle, from which the banqueters fill the characteristic glasses used for this wine. Typical retsina glasses are small having a capacity of 125 ml. They are stemless, in the shape of water glasses, and with an open rim.

Usually, one of the members of the party has the role to fill everyone’s glasses. One starts drinking after all the glasses are filled and the party clink their glasses with a toast or the usual wish “to our health” («‘γεια μας»). The small glasses are filled more often and every time the party follow the same ritual. These small glasses are filled more often and each time the party follows the same ritual. In this way the members of the party show their appreciation for each other, while everyone drinks retsina at the same pace.

In Thessaloniki, the etiquette of retsina enjoyment is intertwined with the everyday habits of its residents. Wine is always enjoyed with meals and during social gatherings, seen as a way to enhance the social experience and create a sense of community among people. At the same time, this is a way to encourage moderate consumption
and ensure the unity of the group creating a social atmosphere that facilitates discussion.

In this way, wine enjoyment in Thessaloniki preserves something of the ancient Greek symposia. At the city’s modern taverns serving mezes («μεζεδοπωλεία») and coffee shops («καφενεία»), consumption of wine (in this case retsina) is always done in moderation, paired with food and in the company of friends.