Thodoris Sahpenderis, the Gourmand

If there is one thing that the owner of the historic "Terpsilarygio" delicatessen knows very well, it is exquisite tastes. After all, since 1964, the public has been able to find in his store the finest that existed and exists in terms of cold meats and cheeses (and not only), from Greece and abroad. Retsina obviously could not be absent from this particular space. After all, the time when they rented a neighboring space exclusively for its storage is not so distant...

THE "TEMPLE" FOR EVERY "BELIEVER".

In the 57 years of operation of "Terpsilarygio", its wonderful flavors have been tasted by everyone: from doctors, lawyers, and generals to the simple, everyday people. Everyone, without exception, longed to try the trademark: the boiled sausage with tomato, mustard, onion (and chili flakes, for the passionates) in a "pressed" bun. Since 1964, they have tried it from Dinos Iliopoulos, Nikos Xanthopoulos and Mary Chronopoulou to George Koudas and Vassilis Hatzipanagis. And how many other politicians and parliamentarians - even later the prime minister honored it. This delicious delicacy was paired by several with a glass of retsina.

The owner's first acquaintance with this particular type of wine took place towards the end of the 1950s - and it was... platonic: "My father only drank on holidays" recounts Thodoris Sahpenderis. "He used to bring home some big demijohns that fitted five okes of retsina. Once an uncle of mine visited us and we made the table for him. We got everything out, but we didn't have any booze. So, Thodorakis ran to 'Tsolakis', in Lambrakis. I must have been 10-12 years old. I took it and carried it all the way. When I brought them retsina, I could see them filling their glasses and enjoying it. I was young and didn't know. Maybe my father would have given me a sip...".

FRAGRANCES…

The first, real test of retsina was not long in coming. "I met retsina at the age of 17, in the early 1960s, when I was a student at Toumba high school. Every night we studied – it must have been around eight o'clock – we were hungry. We were, therefore, passing in front of 'Kritiko' which was located next to the MENT, next to the old high school, which now does not exist. He took out and roasted chickens and various other delicacies and the place was filled with musk. Retsina barrels were out there, exposed. We were passing by; we saw them and we were repulsed. We wanted to taste it. We collected some money with our pocket money. One said: 'I have 5 drachmas'. The other said: 'I have 6'. So, we collected a sum and went. If I remember correctly, the owner's name was Michalis. We said to him: 'Bring us retsina'. He brought a copper jug – and we loved it! 'Bring one more, bring one more...'. He also brought some potatoes, he also brought some meatballs, he also saw us young people and added something more. When we finished, he brought another retsina and some fruit. And he says: 'These from me'. We couldn't drink that last one. We put our heads together and said: 'Here we are, standing for retsina.'"

IN OVERVIEW POSITION.

His father, Anestis, had come from Constantinople and loved mezedes. So, he brought home special flavors – pastourmades and souzoukia – and always looked for the best and highest quality products. Due to a fire, his work was destroyed, and he turned professionally to what he really loved: fine tastes. This is how his cold brew shop was born, which today has been passed on to the third generation, the children of Thodoris.

Retsina always had a prominent place: "People drank a lot of retsina. It used to come in wooden boxes, and we rented a storeroom next door, just for it. There were some small kegs, which my father opened and poured in bulk and people were happy".

THE TURNING POINT.

For what reason, however, does Thodoris Sahpenderis believe that retsina has been questioned over the years? What happened and the world went away from it?

"The main reasons are two. On the one hand, at some point in the 1970s, retsina stopped being the same. It was bottled, its production increased, and preservatives were introduced. Where is that retsina that 'tickled' the palate? The second reason was that the Greek's pocket was full, and his belly grew. And began the search for other flavors. First came the beer. Back then, we didn't drink it – anyone who drank beer was fingered. Then he learned that there is whiskey, but also foreign wines. Sauvignon, let’s say, was advertised as a fine wine from France. And, as is well known, for the Greek, showing off is second nature. Anyone who drank retsina was discredited. He tells you: 'Retsina, the cheap popular drink'. And he was drinking something else, which he may not have liked, but it had to be shown".

Retsina's memories of Thodoris are many. Time, however, has begun to fade names and locations... Fortunately, there are other "veterans" of retsina in the shop to help: "I remember we used to go to a basement in Faliro, in Aetorachis. In Halkidiki there was Mitsanis. There was Pagoulatos, Kokkinos... We went to Neapoli, to Asvestochori. Once upon a time, there was an underground koutouki in the old courthouse. They told me: 'Let's go, let's go, it has nice retsina'. Doctors and lawyers went there. It was hidden somewhere; it didn't have much light... We found a place and sat down. But what struck me was the noise that could be heard above our heads. It was the mice, coming and going on the wooden floor...".

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