Pire kai Vradiazi

Pire kai Vradiazi

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A PLACE FOR RETSINA-LOVERS FROM THE OLD TIMES

The story of a tavern that was "born" immediately after the departure of the occupying forces from Thessaloniki, in 1944, and since then has been bringing joy and flavor to the lives of its visitors. Not only thanks to the wonderful dishes, but also to the retsina that it brews in its barrels. Add to all this the wonderful strains of the bouzouki.

THE "PIRE KAΙ VRADIAZEI" TAVERN IS LOCATED AT 7 OMIROU STREET.

"HIDDEN” TREASURE.
They say that the best things in life have to be looked for to be discovered. From the ideal other half and happiness to suzukaki on the coals in the company of one (or more...) glasses of retsina and good friends. The popular wisdom finds full application in the traditional tavern "Pire kai vradiazei".
Someone who does not know (because, obviously, he is a visitor to Thessaloniki or has recently arrived here to settle up) will need to search to discover it. It is "hidden" behind the trees, on Omirou Street. Nearby are the 6th high school of Thessaloniki and the Historical Archive of Macedonia.

LIVING HISTORY.
As soon as you set foot in the space, you think that, miraculously, you have left the 21st century and been transported to the city's past. You see a tavern you've only seen in movies. You feel that Vassilis Tsitsanis (pictured in a frame, with his bouzouki) will return to the empty chair on the stage and begin the song.
The story of "Pire kai vradiazei" is not far from the story you have created in your mind... As soon as the last Germans left Thessaloniki, in 1944, Kostas Papadopoulos and his son, Nikos, opened on Athens Street (the today's Alexandrou Papanastasiou Street) a small tavern. In the years that followed, it became a favorite haunt of every passionate for a good retsina, cantada and rebetiko song. In 1971 the tavern moved a little further down to its current location.

LEAVING THE GRIEF.
A small frame hangs on a small balcony, which could well be one of the dioramas in a folklore museum. You read: "For a problem that is solved, we are not upset. For a problem that can't be solved, well, then we don't get upset at all."
This is the philosophy of the tavern: to forget sufferings and woes. The smell of meats on the coals breaks your nose. You want to order the whole catalog, but you decide to move modestly and humbly. You order (to begin with) a jug of retsina. It has been made for decades by the people of the tavern themselves, in their barrels located in the basements.

RETSINA FROM YOUR BARRELS...
At one time, there were quite a few taverns that brewed retsina. Now they are counted in the fingers – of one hand at that. The must comes every September from Karystos. The "bombs" (with a capacity of 40 liters each) are filled. The resin is added to the barrels, they are left open for a while (until the boiling starts) and then they are sealed. Then, you have to be patient until the cold weather comes, so that the boiling stops and the retsina clears.
The fresh batch starts shipping around December.

ONLY FOR MEN.
You clink glasses with your friends and talk about all those things that make you happy – or bother you. At the same time, the musicians play pre-war rebetiko: "All the rebets of the dunia", " Throw, gypsy, the cards", "My double string bouzouki". You wonder what it would have been like when the creators themselves played them: Vamvakaris, Batis, Delias...
You drink again and decide – what else? – to order something for the middle. Your eye falls on a page of the catalog. You read: "Wave of Radical Laughter - KY.RI.LE.: Faithful to tradition, every year we celebrate the return of the prodigal son. From 12 noon until... as long as we can stand it. We have fun with songs, bouzoukis, guitars, baglamadas, fine mezedes and, of course, plenty of wine, celebrating the return of the son who left the army, but every year he finds his way and returns to "Pire kai vradiazei".
So far, so good... You read below: “Entrance is strictly allowed to men only, as per custom. So, we are waiting for you to 'crack' him in company". A night for men only. In fact, the list also gives the dates, so you can fill them in your notebook and reserve a table in time (and get permission from the lady in time...): 12/02/2023, 03/03/2024, 16 /02/2025 and so on, until 2032. Then they will need to fill in…

PHOTOS: SAKIS GIOUBASIS.

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