A place of reference for an entire area
The long course of the Kreonidis family in food sector in Thessaloniki, which began in the first decades of the last century, is continued today by the third generation. Their common characteristic, the exquisite tastes, the respect for the customer, the wonderful retsina and the magnificent view. It's not a little to have on your plate, in addition to the food, the whole city...
THE PHOTOGRAPHY WAS TAKEN AT THE TAVERN "THE BALCONY OF KREONIDIS" ONOHI AVENUE, INUPPER TOWN.
A HISTORY OF NINE DECADES.
Going up EleniZografou Street, your gaze inevitably falls on two characteristic points: the city walls (and, specifically, one of their most beautiful parts) and the "Kreonidis" tavern, located directly above them, on Ohi Avenue. You automatically have the desire to make a stop, to enjoy fine appetizers and one (or more) glasses of retsina, looking down on Thessaloniki from above. As one can easily conclude, the full name of the shop ("Balcony of Kreonidis") is not at all accidental... From its tables you can gaze at the Thermaic Gulf, Mount Olympus rising in the background, the walls, and roofs of the houses, which once had a dark, brown-red color from the tiles. It was at the time when Nikos Kreonidis decided to go up to the Upper Town, to create his tavern, which for almost nine decades has been synonymous with the history of catering in Thessaloniki.
FROM LOW TO HIGH.
The "Balcony of Kreonidis" was not the first restaurant of its creator. Various other ventures had preceded it, such as "Varelakia", in White Tower (which was also a landmark in the city center for its time), and a tavern in Kapani, while he had even built a cod store in the port. And somewhere there he was enchanted by the beauty of the Upper Town. Somehow, in 1935, he decided to give up what he was doing and go up to Agios Pavlos. At that time, the image of the area had nothing to do with the one we know today. There were few low houses and the old church of the Apostle Paul. The road was dirt and would remain so for decades. Climbing up for retsina was a bit of an adventure. The view, however, and the mezes were a great incentive, so that you forget all the rest.
Among the old photos that are hung in frames on the store's walls, there are also some from the first decades of its operation. The images with the waiters in the white aprons are images that are more reminiscent of scenes from old Greek movies. The older ones may have caught up with them... The shop's specialty in stews was the Smyrna sutzukakia, while on the spit you could find traditional kleftiko (the old type and not the one known today by this name in taverns around the country), lamb, rooster, and chicken.
Of course, the protagonists were the retsinas and wines that were in the “bombes”, the huge, wooden barrels that were on the balcony. They came mainly from Karysto and Pikermi. It was the same retsina enjoyed by Tsitsanis, Vembo, Prodromos Tsoussakis (who lived a little above) and so many others. An important relic of that time, the only surviving card of the founder, which adorns the entrance of the tavern and reads: "Nicolaos Kreonidis, restaurateur", with the five-digit telephone number of the shop.
When Nikos Kreonidis retired in 1973, his son, Yiannis, took over the reins of the store. A new era was dawning for the historic site. During that time, the asphalt paving of the road was finished - finally - and visitors now had easy and comfortable access. Seafood was added to the menu: fresh fish, calamari and, of course, salty appetizers for the tsipouro. The store started opening in the morning and is constantly evolving. The old married harmoniously with the new. Businessmen could have a lunch, business meeting, close a deal and enjoy retsina and great food at the same time. It is the time when, as the photos on the walls testify, you could enjoy your “exohiko” with Zoe Laskari, Katia Dandoulaki with Marios Ploritis, Maria Farandouri, Stratos Dionysiou and so many others by your side.
THE NEXT PAGE.
In 2013 it was the turn of Yiannis Kreonidis to retire and withdraw into the background. Now, the new generation has (also) a woman's scent – and even twice as much. The reins were taken over by his two daughters, Anna, and Rania, as well as his son-in-law, Makis Papadopoulos. The latter (who is also the chef of the store) has given his own mark with his creations over the last twenty-five years. For those of you who have not tried saganaki octopus, you have a good opportunity to expand your taste horizons without deviating in the slightest from tradition. The chicken fillet with mustard is also an excellent choice. Of course, the flavors that made the Kreonidis tavern so beloved by the general public are always offered: the specialty, the meatball platter with yogurt sauce and potato chips, the moussaka, and the delicacies of the spit – the steak, the kontosouvli and the lamb. In a large (and very old) photo on the wall, Yiannis Kreonidis, great-grandfather of the current generation of owners, and his wife are depicted. And it is certain that, as a merchant - he ran a grocery store in Hippodromiou square -, he would feel deeply proud that his descendants connected the family's surname with the restaurant history of Thessaloniki...
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